The first references to chemical peels appeared in the only completely preserved medical scroll from ancient Egypt, the Ebers Papyrus. Even then, women of high status used sour milk baths, which contain lactic acid, which is AHA (alpha-hydroxy) acid.

Although their history goes back thousands of years, chemical peels are still widely used as the standard beauty procedure. Today, medicine and cosmetology have at their disposal improved formulas of exfoliating acids. This allows them to be used in many indications and for almost all skin types.

Chemical peels are also called chemical or dermatological acids because the most common exfoliating substances are AHA acids or BHA acid. They are used in treatment procedures through exfoliation.

Benefits of using chemical peels

Depending on the initial condition of the skin, rejuvenating, cleansing, regenerating, moisturizing, depigmentation (reducing discoloration), anti-wrinkle, anti-acne and acne scar reduction peels can be used. The benefits obtained depend on the application of the particular mixture.

How does exfoliation work?

Chemical peels penetrate the skin and cause its outer layers to peel off. They work by loosening the connections between skin cells.

With the help of a chemical substance, a controlled process of epidermal damage takes place. It becomes an impulse to stimulate natural regenerative processes – mechanisms are activated that increase the rate of cell division of the epidermis. Exfoliation of its outer layers allows the skin to get rid of excess sebum and callous cells. As a result, the sebaceous gland openings become narrower and the skin surface is smoothed.
Under the influence of exfoliating acids, a cascade of regenerative reactions is triggered, also in the dermis.

Indications for acid exfoliation:

• oily, combination and acne skin
• seborrhea and enlarged pores
• dry, dehydrated and dull skin
• signs of aging such as wrinkles and loss of skin firmness
• thin, flabby skin
• gray, tired and rough skin
• superficial discoloration
• photoaging

The course of the treatment with the use of exfoliation mixtures:

Depending on the product used, the exact procedures differ from one another. However, the typical procedure is shown below:

The first stage includes preparing the skin for the treatment by removing makeup and degreasing. Then, the areas of the nose and the mouth are covered with petroleum jelly; the eyes are covered with cotton pads, and a cap is placed on the hair.

The second stage involves applying the formula to individual areas with a brush. After a specified amount of time has passed, the chemical peeling is neutralized with a special neutralizer, which is then washed off with water. Not all acids require a neutralizer – for example, salicylic acid and TCA are removed with water. Sometimes it is necessary to apply several layers of peeling in one session.

The third stage involves calming the skin by using a calming mask.

Skin after treatment

After the treatment, the skin resembles a sunburn (both in appearance and sensation).

Depending on the preparation used, a slight exfoliation may appear that does not require a convalescence period (e.g. after the use of mandelic acid). However, in the case when strong, deeper peels such as highly concentrated TCA is applied, then a very strong reaction in the form of a dark crust may form on the skin which then starts to peel off after a few days. In such a case, one should take into account that it may take about a week to recover.

Can the treatments with exfoliative acids be carried out all year round?

Formulas leading to strong exfoliation make the skin very susceptible to sunburn. This increases the risk of collagen damage and the formation of new wrinkles and pigmentation spots. Some acids can be used all year round, but the vast majority of traditional acids should not be used in summer and spring. The best time to use chemical peels are autumn and winter.

Currently, there are preparations available on the market that are gentle and non-photosensitizing. Azelaic, mandelic and ferulic acids are worth mentioning among the traditional substances that can be used in the summer.

PRX T33 is a modern formula that can be used all year round despite the presence of trichloroacetic acid. More information about it can be found at the end of the article.

How many treatments are recommended?

The number of treatments in a series depends on many factors:

• formula used
• the baseline skin condition
• expected results
• skin reaction to the formula.

One treatment can be used to refresh, cleanse and make the skin look healthier. To achieve more spectacular effects, such as rejuvenating effects, reduction of discoloration and scars, etc., you need to undergo more treatments (usually 4-6).

Types of chemical peels

The strength of the peeling depends on the type and duration of skin impact, concentration and pH of the formula. Due to the depth of skin penetration, the following can be distinguished:

• surface peels (working only within the epidermis)
• intermediate peels (medium depth – they also work in the upper layers of the dermis)
• deep peels (reach the deeper layers of the dermis)

Due to their structure, they are divided into AHA acids, BHA acids and delicate PHA acids, usually used for home care.

AHA acids are alpha hydroxy acids. They penetrate the sebum layer to a small extent, which is why they are recommended mainly for dry skin. At higher concentrations, they can also be used for acne skin. They are called fruit acids. Among alpha-hydroxy acids we distinguish:

• lactic acid
• glycolic acid
• malic acid
• maleic acid
• citric acid
• tartaric acid
• almond acid
• pyruvic acid

BHA acids are beta-hydroxy acids. Only one is used in treatments and cosmetology – salicylic acid

PHAs are polyhydroxy acids. An example of this is lactobionic acid.

TCA – trichloroacetic acid, which has strong exfoliating properties, does not belong to any of the above groups.

New generation exfoliating formulas

The aesthetic market currently abounds in various types of innovative solutions aimed at ensuring the best results while bearing the lowest possible risk and ensuring the shortest possible recovery period.

One of the very interesting solutions is the use of a combination of chemical peels and micro-needle mesotherapy with the use of a pen in one treatment. This treatment is a deep biorevitalizing combined therapy.

Among modern preparations, the following deserve special attention:

PRX T33

PRX T33 contains 5% kojic acid, 33% trichloroacetic acid and hydrogen peroxide.

What is unique about the PRX T33 treatment?

• no special preparation is required
• it is not painful
• takes approx. 15-20 minutes
• despite the high concentration of TCA, it does not cause intense exfoliation and does not require convalescence
• gives immediate results
• can be used in summer
• does not cause photosensitization
• increases skin tension and elasticity
• evens out the color
• reduces acne scars and fresh stretch marks
• increases skin hydration
• it is helpful in the treatment of acne (clinical trials are underway to authorize its use as an anti-acne drug)
• is a safe formula with reliable clinical documentation, and the procedure with its use has already been carried out over 100 thousand times

Retix C

The intensive rejuvenating treatment “Retix C” contains active substances: retinol, vitamin C and antioxidants.

What is unique about the Retix C treatment?

• 4% retinol content ensures both safety and effectiveness of the treatment
  adequate retinol stability significantly reduces the number of irritations and increases tolerance to the procedure
• strong antioxidant and brightening effect due to the presence of vitamin C.
• it consists of a serum and a mask that is left on the skin for many hours (two-stage treatment)
• rebuilds collagen and elastin
• provides protection against photo damage
• improves skin hydration, density and elasticity
• smoothes the skin, reduces discoloration and imperfections
• supports the natural protective barrier

Glow x9

The advanced biostimulating Glow x9 peeling is rich in many active substances: stabilized trichloroacetic acid, phenol, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, phytic acid and proretinol.

What is unique about the Glow x9 treatment?

• does not require a recovery period
• combines the functions of peeling and biostimulation – provides multi-level rejuvenation
• redermalizes and rebuilds the epidermis and dermis
• normalizes keratolytic processes
• stimulates regenerative processes
• reduces the formation of blackheads and eruptions
• intensively normalizes acne
• initiates the formation and remodeling of collagen and elastin fibers
• constricts enlarged pores
• reduces acne scars
• smoothes and tightens the skin
• increases the amount of endogenous hyaluronic acid
• reduces pigmentation changes
• illuminates and evens out the skin tone
• enhances the effect of needle mesotherapy

BioRePeel Cl3

The two-step, bio-revitalizing advanced peeling BioRePeel Cl3 contains many active ingredients: trichloroacetic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, lactobionic acid, arginine, glycine, proline, hydroxyproline, citric acid, vitamin C, vitamin B2 and GABA.

What is unique about BioRePeel Cl3 treatment?

• is a two-stage treatment consisting of a hydrophilic and lipophilic phase
• has a peeling effect
• has a keratolytic effect
• moisturizes and regenerates the skin
• prevents photoaging of the skin
• improves the condition of acne-prone skin
• tightens pores and eliminates blackheads
• reduces wrinkles